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Things to Do
1. Must get a parking brake handle and mechanism.
2. The center of the sealed beam headlight must be at least 22 inches above the roadbed. Run all vehicle wiring in small, plastic conduit, and DO NOT ground wires of an electric car to the car frame because of electrocution hazard.
3. Must make fender brackets for the front tires/wheels.
4. I have a pieco of thin oak left over from another project for the dash.
5. I have a ‘fuel’ gauge, an ammeter, a voltmeter and a speedometer on the dash plate, plus other switches.
6. Research and order an automatic-battery-balancing battery charger.
7. Plan for the 110 volt battery charger, extension cord hookup and allow room for groceries. .
8.I must go to the local welding shop to make custom heavy duty battery cables and ends.
9. Must mount brake systems on front wheels - not as easy as it sounds. .
Here’s something else (below) to examine for possible design ideas: NASA’s Moon Rover, an extremely lightweight electric car being driven on the moon.
and here’s a link to the complete operator’s manual for it:
http://www.hq.nasa.gov/alsj/lrvhand.html
The Maine Laws for 3-Wheelers
Emergency Brake: I will have to rig up a manually-operated emergency (hand) brake.
Horn: I will need an electric horn.
Headlights: Center of headlight must be mounted no more than 54 inches above the road, nor less than 22 inches. 32 candlepower max, except sealed beam headlight bulbs. The vehicle must have headlights capable of furnishing sufficient candlepower to render any substantial object clearly discernible on a level way at least 200 feet directly ahead and at the same time at least 7 feet to the right of the axis of the vehicle for a distance of at least 100 feet. The light beam at 25 feet must not be higher than the headlight and must point slightly to the right. Traditionally, a 35 watt/55watt light is suitable.
Lights: I will have two LED taillights/stoplights, plus turn signal lights on the back end. No side clearance lights required. License plate light is required, and I’ll also have a backup light. Fog lights not required, but if present they must not shine more than 2 feet above the roadway at 30 feet.
Rearview mirror: The driver must be able to see 200 feet behind the vehicle in it.
Required frame end heights: Neither end less than 10 inches above the road for cars. Maximums above road: 24 inches front, 26 inches rear. These are for cars, motorcycle requirements are less.
Speedometer and odometer: Both required.
Title and VIN number: The Maine State Police must issue the VIN number after inspecting the car and verifying the origins of its major parts (not stolen).
Maine vehicle identification number Laws. [2003, c. 397, §9 (new).][2003, c. 397, §9 (new).]
Every state requires what is called "The Federal Minimum Requirement" which consists of:
- Headlight with a high and low beam
- Headlight indicator light visible to the operator to show when the high beam is operating
- Horn - Some states mandate an electric horn, a mechanical or air horn is ok in others.
- Battery powered taillight and brake light which must operate for 20 minutes on battery power alone
- Rear view mirror
- Electric turn signals
- Most states require speedometers and odometers
- Tires should be DOT approved
- Lights should be DOT approved
Registration procedures vary from state to state but typically involve:
- Signing an affidavit certifying that the vehicle meets state standards.
- Bringing the vehicle to the DMV for a vehicle inspection for proper lighting, etc and get an inspection sticker.
- Once the paper work and inspection are complete you must get a VIN number from the DMV, get insurance, and then you can register the vehicle at your local town/city office and finally, drive it. .
Here’s a recent quote from a friend of mine about the benefits of regenerative braking vs freewheeling: Thanks to Dino for this excellent info.
“Having some 5,000 miles of electric car driving experience, I would suggest that freewheeling isn't an important issue. There is no engine compression that forces an immediate deceleration when gas is no longer applied, in fact, the electric motor just "free wheels". Yes, there is the problem that it is acting like a flywheel and helping to keep the car rolling forward with its inertia, but no, there is no aggressive slowing of the vehicle. Yes, the brushes are robbing precious energy by friction against the armature, but no, it isn't a huge amount.
If you are doing a lot of stop and go driving then you must consider regenerative braking, where the motor acts as a generator as the car slows down. This is relatively complicated, and must be engineered into your choice of motor and controller. Don't think you can add it later if you make a random motor/controller choice.
Without regenerative braking all of the power used to accelerate the car is lost as you apply the brakes, which is a considerable loss. What I am saying is, you will see a return on investment in regenerative braking -- adding true free wheeling will give a result so minuscule that it won't even be quantifiable.”
Below: Needing to keep my vehicle as light as possible, here’s an electric car design that I don’t plan to copy: This guy plans to include 80 lead/actid car batteries to power this very heavy vehicle, and it looks like it will need that many.
www.dreamcar123.com
Here’s another homemade electric vehicle project:
Specifications of the above vehicle:
- Type: Pedal-Electric recumbent tricycle
- Frame: Type 2 Titanium tubes (weighs less than ten pounds)
- Length: 64"
- Width: 30" at front forks
- Weight: 150 pounds
- Tires: high pressure (100 psi) 20" BMX bicycle tires (48 spokes each)
- Max speed: 30 mph with pedal-assist
- Battery: 72 F-cell nickel metal hydride rechargeable
- Two joysticks from a cast-off Commodore computer
- Cost: $3,000 plus nine months labour
The URL for this unique bike is:
Click Here
This car was the first fabric-covered electric built by the Wike bicycle trailer company.
Click Here
Indiana students built this slick solar car. Mine will stand a lot higher. I’m older than these guys, and might fall asleep if I drove in this recumbent position for long. ha, ha But I basically like their clean design.
www.bloomington.in.us
The 3-wheeled Trev from Australia
http://www.batteryvehiclesociety.org.uk/wordpress/?p=326
This is the Didik electric car
And here’s where to read his article, ‘How to Build an Electirc Car’
http://www.didik.com/ev_build.htm
A very neat street-legal Canadian electric trike below:
This trike is at: http://www.veva.bc.ca/registry/page_01.htm
I hope mine turns out to look this good, but mine will have spindlly front wheels and an enclosed driver compartment.
Below: Although smaller than my car will be, I really like this design because of its simple and effective solution to streamlining.
Below is the Aerorider, a high quality pedal and electric-assist vehicle from Holland.
I very much like the quality and appearance of this vehicle. It is at: www.aerorider.com
It would be good if my vehicle could look this good, and function well too. The front wheels of my vehicle are 45 inches wide, much wider than the above vehicle, and I’m planning to have larger taillights and directional lights.
TWO PERTH, AUSTRALIA HOMEMADE EVs
Can you picture yourself commuting to work in one of these?
Click Here
V is for Voltage
Electric vehicle-related discussion, advocacy, and information.
www.visforvoltage.net
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